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HANDCRAFTED VINTAGE STERLING SILVER MULTICOLORED INLAY ZUNI SUN FACE RING
$44.95
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Vintage Sterling Silver Soutwestern Navajo Zuni Inlaid Owl Ring sz 7 390gr
$22.00
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$89.99
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$12.99
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$13.45
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LARGE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER FEATHER BEAD CORAL TURQUOISE RING 105gm SZ 6
$99.00
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$275.00
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$24.99
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$150.00
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Genuine Vintage Zuni Petti Point Flower Ring Coral Sterling Silver SIGNED VT
$189.95
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$145.00
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$49.00
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$40.00
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$39.99
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$14.00
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$89.95
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$10.95
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$45.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI LIQUID SILVER INLAY GEMSTONES PENDANT 16 NECKLACE
$89.99
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Vintage Native American Zuni Sterling Petit Point Needle Point Turquoise Earring
$35.00
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$25.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER INLAID CORAL TURQUOISE ONYX THUNDERBIRD PIN
$165.00
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$295.99
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$269.99
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VERY OLD VINTAGE ZUNI SNAKE EYE TURQUOISE STERLING DOUBLE ROW BRACELET STAMPED
$129.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Southwestern Zuni Oblong Inlaid Ring Turq Coral+ sz 8
$48.00
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RARE ANTIQUE VINTAGE BIG NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI INDIAN BEAR PAW SHAPE NECKLACE
$299.00
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Vintage Zuni Southwestern Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Cardinal Bird Ring 7
$49.99
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$24.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Southwestern Turquoise Pendant Zuni Signed 925
$29.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN TURQUOISE AND SILVER STAR PENDANT CHAIN
$135.00
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Vintage Southwestern LES Sterling Silver Turquoise Ring Size 55 Zuni
$27.99
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$57.71
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$45.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sterling Silver Pendant Necklace Turquoise Sugilite Oyster
$45.95
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VINTAGE STERLING SOUTHWESTERN PIN PENDANT COMBO ZUNI ROADRUNNER GREAT AT 2600
$26.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID FIRE AGATE PENDANT NECKLACE
$113.52
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Vtg Jewelry ZUNI Sterling Silver OWL Turquoise Mother Pearl Brooch Pin rr574
$39.99
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zuni vintage indian american petit silver point turquoise 60s mid kingman mint
$85.00
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Vintage 4PC Turquoise Lot 3 Turquoise Coral Zuni Sterling Rings Rock Necklace
$9.24
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VINTAGE ZUNI PETIT NEEDLE POINT STERLING TURQUOISE BRACELET
$225.00
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Vintage John Mclents Zuni Indian Eagle Dancer Multi Pin Pendant Sterling Silver
$349.95
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VINTAGE STERLING SOUTHWESTERN PIN PENDANT COMBO ZUNI MULTI STONE ROADRUNNER 28
$28.00
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Vintage 1960s Zuni Sterling Multi Stone Inlay THUNDERBIRD Clip On Earrings
$49.95
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SO PRETTY VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER TURQUOISE FLOWER LEAF PIN
$138.00
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Gorgeous Vintage Signed SY ZUNI Native American Petit Point Cuff Bracelet
$195.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI PETIT POINT TURQUOISE STERLING SILVER CUFF BRACELET
$50.99
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Vintage Zuni Silver and Turquoise Earrings Pettipoint STERLING Signed GR171
$59.99
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Vintage Zuni Silver and Turquoise Single Row Pin
$50.00
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VTG SIGNED ZUNI H VY INLAY THUNDERBIRD STERLING CHAIN NECKLACE
$374.99
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vtg indian ring 5 navajo zuni small sizes coral silver turquoise old thunderbird
$49.00
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VINTAGE JANICE PALOMO ZUNI STAMPED TURQUOISE RING PETIT POINT
$75.00
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Vintage Big Madeline Beyuka Zuni Turquoise Pendant Sterling Silver Indian Pawn
$49.88
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VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI NEEDLEPOINT SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE NATIVE RING SZ 5
$59.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Necklace w Turquoise Malachite Coral Lapis + Signed
$20.00
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EARLY vintage ZUNI LONE MOUNTAIN TURQUOISE PETIT POINT SQUASH BLOSSOM NECKLACE
$1,580.00
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Pretty Vintage 1940s Hand Made Zuni Turquoise Onyx Brooch 184MY5
$21.99
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Vintage Old Zuni Pueblo Indian Silver Turquise Heishi Shell Necklace 155 grams
$10.49
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DJ GHAHATE 925 SILVER VINTAGE ANTIQUE ZUNI NEEDLEP TURQUOISE RING 13g Sz 10
$2.25
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Ladies Zuni Vintage 12 Stone turquoise Inlay Sun Face Ring Sterling Silver sz 6
$24.95
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Vintage Zuni Ring Sterling Silver Turquoise Size 75 Banketewa Excellent
$125.00
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VTG SILVER 925 Old Pawn CONCHOS Zuni BEAR Turquoise SW Native Charm Bracelet
$29.99
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Vintage Southwestern Liquid Sterling Silver Coral Turquoise Necklace 100580
$28.88
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Vntg W J PANTEAH ZUNI SILVER GEMSTONE INLAY NECKLACE
$9.98
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Vntg DESIGNER SIGNED ZUNI STERLING SILVER CORAL NECKLACE
$9.98
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VINTAGE LONG OLD PAWN ZUNI STERLING ANIMAL FETISH STONE HEISHI BEAD NECKLACE
$15.89
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VTG ZUNI Silver tone tube bead Abalone Shell Fetish Bird choker Necklace
$7.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Charoite Pink Oyster Large Zuni Earrings F14
$172.50
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12 VINTAGE STERLING SILVER PINS NAVAJO TAXCO ZUNI ETC
$189.00
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Gorgous Zuni Vintage 70s Pierced Sterling Turquoise Onyx Coral Earrings 1098D4
$46.99
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Vintage Squash Blossom 50+ years old silver and turguoise Navajo Zuni necklace
$700.00
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Sterling Silver Vintage Inlaid Zuni Coral Turquoise Onyx MOP Bolo Tie Pendant
$450.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Flush Turquoise Inlay Dangle Screwback Earrings G
$35.04
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Sarah Cov Faux Turquoise ZUNI Ring Adjustable Size 675 Vintage
$8.99
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RARE MEN OLD VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER 925 ONYX MOTHER PEARL HORSE RING 9 1 2
$8.27
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Vintage Zuni Sterling with Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Ring sz 6 3 4
$14.99
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Thunderbird Money Clip Stainless Sterling Gemstone
$72.00
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Vintage Pre Owned Zuni Navajo Onyx and Bisbee Turquoise Sterling Dangle Earrings
$85.00
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VINTAGE ANTIQUE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE SHELL INLAY DEER PIN PAWN
$59.00
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ANTIQUE VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER MULTI STONE INLAY THUNDERBIRD RING
$24.50
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Vintage silver NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN ZUNI NAVAJO TURQUOISE LEAF ring
$32.95
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Vintage silver LARGE DEAD PAWN AMERICAN INDIAN ZUNI NAVAJO CORAL TURQUOISE ring
$42.95
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Vintage silver DEAD PAWN NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN ZUNI NAVAJO TURQUOISE LEAF ring
$14.95
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Vintage silver DEAD PAWN AMERICAN INDIAN ZUNI NAVAJO CORAL TURQUOISE earrings
$29.95
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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