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VTG ZUNI CECILIA IULE STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE CROSS PENDANT 25 X 15 13 GRAMS
$72.50
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Vintage Sterling Zuni Mosiac Inlay Bolo Tie Signed
$24.50
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Vintage Old Pawn Zuni Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet Green Turquoise Hand Crafted
$349.00
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Vtg ZUNI Old Pawn Beaded Handmade HEISHI Bead SILVER ends by Clasp SURF HIP
$16.99
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Vintage Zuni LAVONNE LALIO Sterling Lab Opal Inlay Cross Pendant Necklace
$75.00
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Vintage Zuni Silver Cuff Bracelet and Silver Ring Size 6 1 4 with Multi Stones
$249.99
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VINTAGE SIGNED EFFIE C ZUNI STERLING TURQUOISE CORAL TALL SNAKE RING SIZE 52
$155.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Inlaid Zuni Ring Turquoise Onyx MOP Coralsz85 Boone
$48.00
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Vintage Silver Zuni Pink Mother of Pearl Large Charm Pendant Awesome D
$15.00
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VINTAGE SOUTHWEST STERLING TURQUOISE ZUNI INLAID INLAY DANGLE PIERCED EARRINGS
$76.00
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Large Beautiful Vintage ZUNI Petit Point Turquoise Silver Pendant
$200.00
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Zuni Style Vintage Sterling Silver Sunburst Cross w Blue Turquoise Charm H662
$10.95
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LOT OF Vtg Antq NAVAJO ZUNI TURQUOISE JEWELRY STERLING MALACHITE LOOSE
$175.00
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Vtg Zuni Gemstone Inlay Thunderbird Money Clip Sterling Stainless 1960s NICE
$138.95
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Vtg Old Pawn Sterling Silver ZUNI Onyx Turquoise Inlay Floral Branch Ring sz 65
$75.00
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Vtg Sterling Silver LOTS of 3 Navajo Zuni MOP CORAL LAPIS LAZULI Single Earrings
$10.00
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Vintage silver AMERICAN INDIAN NAVAJO ZUNI INLAY TURQUOISE ETCHED ENGRAVED ring
$34.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING INLAID TURQUOISE ONYX SHELL CORAL KNIFEWING MAN PIN
$285.00
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Vintage silver NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN NAVAJO ZUNI OVAL TURQUOISE LEAF ring
$59.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE ONYX CORAL RAINBOW MAN PIN
$165.00
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$75.00
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Vintage Larger Sterling Silver Turquoise Zuni Cross Pendant 25g 2 1 2 Jewelry
$95.00
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Vintage Spider Web Turquoise Needlepoint Zuni Inlay Copper Cuff Bracelet
$12.51
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VTG SILVER ZUNI STYLE SUN FACE RING INLAID MOTHER OF PEARL TURQUOISE
$350.00
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Vtg Native STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Crestcent Turquoise Stud Pierce Earrings
$6.55
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VINTAGE ZUNI INLAYED CORAL TURQUOISE BUTTERFLY FIGURAL SILVER RING SIZE 525
$19.99
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Handmade Vintage Zuni Pueblo Indian Sterling Silver and Turquoise Bracelet USA
$31.00
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Vintage Zuni Artisan Sterling Silver and Turquoise Inlay Ring Size 55
$9.99
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Vtg Sterling Silver LOTS of 3 Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE LAPIS LAZULI Single Earrings
$4.38
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ZUNI Turquoise Inlaid Figural BUTTERFLY PIN PENDANT Vintage HECELIICION NA
$29.99
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Flower Indian Feather Turquoise Stud Earrings
$6.50
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Native Navajo Zuni FLORAL Turquoise Dangle Drop Stud Earring
$10.50
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Southwestern Navajo Zuni FLORAL Turquoise Chain Necklace
$11.50
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Vintage Zuni Silver Tone Turquoise Coral Band Ring Size 8 1 2
$20.00
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Awesome Vintage ZUNI BN NASTACIO Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Red CORAL BOLO TIE
$20.50
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Nice Vintage Tribal Zuni Enamel clip earrings no markings Estate Jewelry
$19.00
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VINTAGE STERLING RING INLAY ZUNI SEC NATURAL STONE SOUTHWESTERN
$37.69
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Nice vintage Zuni Turquoise Coral mother of pearl clip earrings Tribal Estate
$24.00
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Vintage Native American Zuni Inlay Turquoise Sterling Silver Clip On Earrings 58
$9.99
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Handmade HORACE IULE Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Coral Cross Pendant J AX
$103.51
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Shell Inlay Peacock Pin Brooch J
$30.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI DAN SIMPLICIO TURQUOISE CORAL SILVER SANDCAST RING WITH SNAKE
$145.00
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Turquoise Inlay Stud Dangle Drop SINGLE Earring
$5.50
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Native Navajo Zuni Crescent Snake Eye Turquoise Stud Earring
$6.00
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Vintage ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE PETTIPOINT NECKLACE c 1920 35
$49.00
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Native Navajo Zuni Turquoise Stud Dangle Drop Earrings
$6.50
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Vtg STERLING Silver Native OLD PAWN ZUNI NAVAJO Spiderweb Turquoise Ladies Ring
$10.50
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Vintage STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Indian Feather Malachite Dangle Earrings
$6.00
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Ring Zuni Light Blue Turquoise Sterling Vintage Size 9 1 4
$79.00
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Ring Zuni Green Blue Turquoise Sterling Vintage Size 5
$49.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Turquoise Bracelet S Sanchez Zuni
$59.50
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Copper Enamel Pin Vintage Zuni Indian Bear Fetish Brooch Red Heart Life Line
$39.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Signed HMIJ Turquoise Coral Ladies Watch Tips 92g
$7.50
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Vintage Zuni Turquoise Point Round Ring 85 8 3 4
$22.99
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VINTAGE 1960s RETRO MOD JEWELRY LOT ZUNI HIPPIE STERLING LUCITE ENAMEL EISENBERG
$295.00
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Vintage Pierced Earrings QT Sterling Silver 925 Turquoise Kachina Feather Zuni
$39.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING TURQUOISE STONES KNIFEWING MAN IN PENTAGON PIN
$475.00
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ZUNI MOTHER OF PEARL STERLING VINTAGE MOSAIC INLAY BOLO PAWN FAUX CLAW TURQUOISE
$188.00
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Vintage Pablo Zuni Genuine Turquoise Coral Loose Gemstones Jewelry Lot
$3.00
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Vintage Set of 3 ZUNI Native American Sterling Silver Buttons Circa 1960s
$54.95
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VINTAGE SOUTHWESTERN ZUNI BOLO BIRD MINIATURECHILDs
$15.00
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VTG ZUNI INDIAN HEISHI BEAD INLAID TURQUOISE CORAL ONYX MOSAIC SHELL NECKLACE
$350.00
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Vintage Native American BROOCH Snake Eye Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Zuni Navajo
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Mosaic Inlay Dreamcatcher Pendant Pin G O
$26.00
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Zuni Vintage Petit Point Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Sterling BRACELET mint signed
$79.00
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Vtg Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Shell Jet Inlay Rainbow Man Pendant J
$51.00
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Large ALICE QUAM Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Cut Turquoise Cuff Bracelet J LXX
$525.00
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UNUSUAL OLD VTG STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL MOTHER OF PEARL ZUNI TIE TACK
$29.99
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Vtg Southwest Zuni Hand Carved Fetish Earring Set Bear Turquoise Inlay Malachite
$19.99
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Vintage Native American Zuni sterling coral dangle pierce earrings
$89.99
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VINTAGE SIGNED ZUNI STERLING SILVER INLAY SPIDERWEB TURQUOISE LINK BRACELET
$71.22
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VTG SMALL STERLING SILVER ZUNI SUNFACE MOP CORAL TIE TACK LAPEL PIN
$37.50
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Vtg Navajo Zuni Inlaid Sunface Ring sz 6 Mother Of pearl Onyx Coral Turquoise
$44.99
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Vintage Pre Owned Zuni Navajo Onyx and Bisbee Turquoise Sterling Dangle Earrings
$85.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver 925 inlaid Necklace Signed by Artist Pendant
$185.00
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Vintage Zuni JS Bellson Sterling Needlepoint Coral Necklace Earring Set
$295.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlaid Cuff Bracelet Artisan Signed Turquoise Malachite Onyx
$500.00
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Vintage Mens Turquoise and Silver Ring Size 11 Zuni
$50.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Soutwestern Navajo Zuni Inlaid Owl Ring sz 7 390gr
$22.00
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VINTAGE SILVER HEISHI NECKLACE SHELL TUNDERBIRDS FETISH BIRDS NECKLACE ZUNI
$29.90
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Vintage Effi C Zuni 925 Pendant Necklace of Silver Beads 20 Long
$134.99
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LARGE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER FEATHER BEAD CORAL TURQUOISE RING 105gm SZ 6
$99.00
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Vtg American Southwest Sterling Silver Turquoise Needlepoint Zuni Pin
$12.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE FLOWER DANGLE PIERCED EARRINGS
$275.00
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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