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Vtg 60s Zuni SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL INLAY STONE BIRD Indian Southwest Ring sz 7+
$23.00
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Southwest Vtg Sterling Silver Turquoise Zuni Earrings 353506
$35.00
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$99.96
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$39.99
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Vintage Coral Turquoise Roped PATINA Zuni Sterling Silver 925 Ring 65 160g
$33.73
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Fine Vintage Zuni Turquoise Silver Stone to Stone Inlay Belt Buckle
$375.00
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Vtg Old Pawn 40s ZUNI Sterling Silver Needle Point Turquoise Peacock Brooch Pin
$37.49
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Vtg Old Pawn Sterling Silver ZUNI Turquoise Sunface Kachina Headdress Brooch Pin
$21.25
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Zuni Signed Snake Eye Turquoise Bracelet Vintage Native American
$85.00
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Vtg Zuni Sterling Inlay Sun Face Pendant Key Chain Fob 925 Chain Soseeah
$60.00
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Vtg Sterling Zuni Dangle Pendant Necklace Inlaid Coral Turquoise Gemstone
$50.00
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Dainty Vintage Sterling Silver Southwest ZUNI Inlay Pierced Earrings Signed JP
$38.50
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LOT VINTAGE NAVAJO EARRINGS STERLING Nugget Spider Beads Loose Turtle Zuni
$30.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Ring With Turquoise Stones Size 45
$25.00
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$24.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN SILVER EARRINGS SIGNED ZENO MARYANN
$44.95
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EFFIE ZUNI Sterling Silver Vintage Turquoise Snake Ring 276 grams 8 G3195
$77.18
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Vintage 5PC Sterling Silver Turquoise Lot Zuni Ring Earrings Necklaces+ 32GR+
$14.50
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$235.00
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$42.95
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Beautiful Vintage Zuni Inlay Sterling Silver Ring Size 65
$49.95
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SIGNED ZUNI VINTAGE NAVAJO CORAL MOP WOMENS SIZE 67 STERLING RING BEAUTIFUL
$1.04
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SIGNED ZUNI VINTAGE NAVAJO CORAL MOP WOMENS SIZE 67 STERLING RING BEAUTIFUL
$2.25
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SIGNED ZUNI BILL LOU VINTAGE NAVAJO BEAUTIFUL TURQUOISE 925 NECK PENDANT
$22.26
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$20.00
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$4.99
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$99.99
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$9.99
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HEAVY VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER RING w TURQUOISE ONYX SPINY OYSTER SIZE 10
$209.69
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Vtg Zuni Native American Sterling Turquoise Petit Point Earrings Repair Signed
$10.49
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Stunning vtg Native American Zuni lanel turquoise sterling pierce earrings
$119.99
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Vintage ZUNI Sterling Silver SunFace Inlay RING sz 825 Turquoise Coral Jet MOP
$57.95
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VtgNative American Zuni SAS turquoise coral multi stones sterling earrings
$159.99
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VTG ZUNI PETITE PETIT POINT TURQUOISE STONE STERLING SILVER PIERCED EARRINGS WOW
$14.50
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Vintage 925 Zuni Indian Knife Wing Silver Native Sterling Ring Sz 7
$99.05
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Vintage Pablo Zuni Genuine Turquoise Loose Gemstones Jewelry Lot
$240.00
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Vintage Pablo Zuni Genuine Turquoise Coral Loose Gemstones Jewelry Lot
$84.00
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Sterling Silver Band Ring Lovely Designs
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Turquoise Sterling Silver Ring
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Black Stone Silver Earrings Lovely
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Coral Turquoise Sterling S Butterfly Ring
$9.99
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Vintage Costume Zuni Turquoise Silver Bear Necklace Pendant Embossed Beads
$45.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Bear Turquoise Beaded 16 1 2 Necklace Jewelry
$8.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI HAND CARVED TURQUOISE BEAR FETISH NECKLACE
$55.95
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VINTAGE HEAVY STERLING SILVER ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN ANIMAL FETISH NECKLACE 29 IN
$185.00
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Vintage Zuni Old Pwn SW Turquoise White Shell S Silver Ring Size 6
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Brown Stone S Silver Ring Size 9 3 4
$9.99
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3 Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Turquoise Stone S Silver Rings Size 5 1 4
$14.99
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2 Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Turquoise S S Rings Turtle Bear Paw
$9.99
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2 Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Turquoise White Shell S S Rings Size 5 1 2
$9.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE ONYX CORAL RAINBOW MAN PIN
$700.00
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2 Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Turquoise S S Rings Turtle Bear Paw
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Turquoise S Silver Ring Size 9
$9.99
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ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN STERLING TURQUOISE PETIT POINT CLIP EARRINGS VINTAGE 30C
$24.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern 5 Stone Turquoise S Silver Ring Size 5
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Mother of Pearl Turquoise S S Ring Size 6
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Green Turquoise S Silver Ring Size 6
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Blue Turquoise S Silver Ring Size 6
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Turquoise Cross Inlay S Silver Ring Size 5 3 4
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Pin Brooch Monther Of Pearl Turquioise Jewelry Silver
$49.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Black Onyx Red Jasper Pearl Turquioise Jewelry Silver Ring
$49.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Black Onyx Red Jasper Pearl Turquioise Jewelry Silver Pendant
$95.00
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Vintage SANCREST Silver Tone Zuni Style Needlepoint Turquoise Dangle Earrings
$12.99
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Vintage SANCREST Silver Tone Zuni Style Petitpoint Turquoise Dangle Earrings
$12.99
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Vintage Signed Zuni ring by R LATONE
$76.89
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL BAND RING 57gm sz 8 1 2
$59.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE SHADOW BOX RING 39gm sz 8 3 4
$69.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE MOP RING 54gm sz 7 3 4 8
$39.00
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VINTAGE OLD PAWN ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE INLAY BIRD PIN NR
$33.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI PUEBLO INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE PETITE NAJA PENDANT NR
$27.99
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Old Pawn Vintage NAVAJO Fetish Zuni Turquoise Necklace Kachina Man Hand Carved
$24.99
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Vintage Zuni Style Sterling Silver Turquoise Shell Inlay Ring Size 6
$79.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Red Coral and Black Onyx Jet Inlaid Moon Earrings
$52.99
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Vintage Native American Zuni Turquoise Inlaid with MOP Sterling Sliver Necklace
$85.00
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Orange Blood Moon Stone S Silver Ring
$9.99
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Sarah Coventry Silver Tone Vtg Zuni Ring w Faux Turquoise Stones
$8.50
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Turquoise Sterling Silver Double Ring
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Rose Quartz Sterling Silver Double Ring
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Phoenix Sterling Silver Ring Size 3 1 2
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Turquoise Stone Sterling Silver Ring
$9.99
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VTG SIGNED ZUNI H VY INLAY THUNDERBIRD STERLING CHAIN NECKLACE
$374.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Turquoise Zuni Blossom Ring size 7 for repair
$25.00
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn SW Brown Black Stone S S Turtle Ring Size 6 1 2
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Old Pawn Southwestern Turquoise Inlay S Silver Ring Size 6 3 4
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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