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Vintage Silver Turquoise Clip on Earrings Flower Cluster Zuni
$45.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Pendant with chain by E A
$40.99
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lot of vtg native american zuni jewelry 2 pair of inlay earrings necklace ring
$54.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER INLAID CORAL TURQUOISE ONYX THUNDERBIRD PIN
$165.00
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Vintage 925 Sterling Silver Heavy Zuni Animal Bead Necklace 30 675g 444299
$269.99
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Vintage Zuni Animal Fetish BIRD WOLF Red Coral STERLING 925 RING SIZE 1075 E64
$89.99
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VERY OLD VINTAGE ZUNI SNAKE EYE TURQUOISE STERLING DOUBLE ROW BRACELET STAMPED
$129.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Southwestern Zuni Oblong Inlaid Ring Turq Coral+ sz 8
$48.00
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Vintage Zuni Heart Necklace by Irene Simplicio Silver Turquoise MOP Signed
$39.50
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Stone Thunderbird Inlay Cuff Bangle Bracelet CAR 5685
$329.00
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Vintage Zuni Southwestern Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Cardinal Bird Ring 7
$49.99
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Vintage Bloodstone Ring Native American Zuni Fred Harvey STUNNING
$49.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN TURQUOISE AND SILVER STAR PENDANT CHAIN
$135.00
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VTG Zuni Hummingbird Turquoise Coral Jet MOP inlay Sterling Pendant Pin
$57.71
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Small Post Back Earrings Southwestern
$45.00
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ZUNI VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ABALONE BEAR ARTISAN ZHELAINE EARRINGS NEVER WORN
$10.00
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Zuni Style Vintage Sterling Silver Sunburst Cross w Blue Turquoise Charm H662
$10.95
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Vintage Signed Sarah Coventry Adjustable Ring 1976 ZUNI Faux turquoise silver
$9.95
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Vtg Jewelry ZUNI Sterling Silver OWL Turquoise Mother Pearl Brooch Pin rr574
$39.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI LIQUID SILVER INLAY GEMSTONES PENDANT 16 NECKLACE
$79.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI SILVER WATCH BAND TURQUOISE CHANNEL INLAY
$89.00
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VERY OLD DARK PATINA VINTAGE ZUNI PETIT POINT TURQUOSE STERING BRACELET 50GRM
$329.00
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Vintage John Mclents Zuni Indian Eagle Dancer Multi Pin Pendant Sterling Silver
$349.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY SIGNED ROSITA WALLACE BUTTERFLY EARRINGS
$95.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI PETIT POINT TURQUOISE SILVER RING SIGNED
$75.00
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Vtg Excellent Zuni Sterling Silver Fetish Necklace Signed Coyote Bird Turtle
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Silver and Turquoise Earrings Pettipoint STERLING Signed GR171
$59.99
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Vintage Zuni Silver and Turquoise Single Row Pin
$50.00
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Native Vintage Zuni Pawn 14k Gold Amy Quandelacy Coral Inlay Humming Bird Ring
$510.00
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Vintage Native Zuni 14k Gold Ithaca Peak Turquoise Effie Calavaza Snake Pendant
$127.50
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Vtg STERLING Silver Native Southwestern NAVAJO ZUNI Turquoise Ladies Ring Sz 9
$17.39
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1Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Turquoise Coral Bear Claw SINGLE Watch Tips 61g
$24.48
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VTG SIGNED ZUNI H VY INLAY THUNDERBIRD STERLING CHAIN NECKLACE
$374.99
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Vtg Southwestern STERLING Silver SIGNED ZUNI NM PetitePoint LARGE Turquoise Ring
$56.00
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Vtg OLD PAWN STERLING Silver Native Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE Inlay CLIP ON Earrings
$31.00
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Vintage Native American ZUNI INLAY Ring Sterling Silver Masterful Inlay
$75.00
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Vtg STERLING Silver Southwestern Native NAVAJO ZUNI Turquoise Brooch Pin Pendant
$20.50
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Vtg Southwestern STERLING Silver HALLMARKED Navajo Zuni LARGE CORAL Ring Sz 8
$3.25
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2Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Turquoise Coral Bear Claw SINGLE Watch Tips 39g
$21.50
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Vtg STERLING Silver Southwestern NAVAJO ZUNI Turquoise ROADRUNNER Brooch Pin
$5.50
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VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE RING PETIT POINT DOUBLE ARROWHEADS
$24.99
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Sarah Cov Faux Turquoise ZUNI Ring Adjustable Size 675 Vintage
$8.99
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3Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Turquoise Coral THUNDERBIRD Watch Tips 36g
$20.50
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Gorgeous Vintage Signed SY ZUNI Native American Petit Point Cuff Bracelet
$145.00
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VINTAGE Southwestern Pawn Zuni 925 Sterling Turquoise Dangle Teardrops Earrings
$61.00
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Vtg STERLING Silver Southwestern Native NAVAJO ZUNI Snake Eye Turquoise Ring
$22.50
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VINTAGE SOUTHWESTERN ZUNI BIRD FACE SIGNED RUE TURQUOISE INLAID TIE TACK
$8.99
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Vtg STERLING SILVER Navajo Zuni Turquoise Coral LARGE SINGLE Watch Tips 67g Lot4
$49.99
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Vtg STERLING Silver Southwestern Native NAVAJO ZUNI 7 SNAKE EYE Turquoise Ring
$15.50
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Vtg Southwestern STERLING Silver Navajo Zuni 20PCS SnakeEyed LRG Turquoise Ring
$59.00
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Vintage Southwestern BELL Trading Post STERLING Silver Inlay Zuni SUNFACE Charm
$0.99
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VINTAGE INDIAN NATIVE AMERICAN NAVAHO ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL SHADOW RING
$29.99
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VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI NEEDLEPOINT SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE NATIVE RING SZ 5
$59.99
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SOUTHWEST TURQUOISE AND SILVER EARRINGS VINTAGE SCREW BACK ZUNI
$48.00
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HANDCRAFTED VINTAGE STERLING SILVER MULTICOLORED INLAY ZUNI SUN FACE RING
$44.95
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Ladies Zuni Vintage 12 Stone turquoise Inlay Sun Face Ring Sterling Silver sz 6
$24.95
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Vintage Zuni Ring Sterling Silver Turquoise Size 75 Banketewa Excellent
$125.00
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vintage southwestern sterling cuff bracelet signed EFFIEZUNIturquoisecorol
$19.99
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Pretty vintage Native American Zuni petit point turquoise sterling clip earrings
$44.99
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VINTAGE SIGNED M NOCHE ZUNI TRIBE MULTI INLAID SILVER EARRINGS FOR PIERCED EARS
$35.99
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VTG ZUNI INDIAN HAND CUT BLACK ONYX STONE STERLING SILVER 1950s PIERCED EARRINGS
$4.25
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Vintage Sterling Silver Charoite Pink Oyster Large Zuni Earrings F14
$172.50
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Pretty Vintage 1940s Hand Made Zuni Turquoise Onyx Brooch 184MY5
$21.99
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Gorgous Zuni Vintage 70s Pierced Sterling Turquoise Onyx Coral Earrings 1098D4
$46.99
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Vintage Squash Blossom 50+ years old silver and turguoise Navajo Zuni necklace
$450.00
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Vtg Sterling chain carved owl fetish zuni Native American Faux ivory necklace
$15.00
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vintage necklace ZUNI styleLOTS of charms armdifferent Navajo bench made
$29.95
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Sterling Silver Vintage Inlaid Zuni Coral Turquoise Onyx MOP Bolo Tie Pendant
$450.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver and Sleeping Beauty Earrings Signed by EffieC Zuni
$99.95
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GORGEOUS OLD VTG ZUNI STERLING SILVER BLUE GREEN TURQUOISE ONYX PENDANT
$54.99
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VINTAGE OLD PAWN ZUNI TURQUOISE CORAL ON STERLING SILVER LEAF RING 38g SIZE 7
$55.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Dolphin Fetish Necklace
$35.00
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JOE EUSTACE ZUNI COCHITI JE COLLECTIBLE 925 Half Hoop Earrings VINTAGE
$55.00
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Vtg un signed Hopi or Zuni Sterling Silver Lab Opal Inlay Kokopeli Pendant
$19.95
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VINTAGE RELIOS CAROLYN POLLACK ZUNI PETITPOINT TURQUOISE STERLING SILVER RING
$20.25
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Vintage ZUNI Green Turquoise Cluster Sterling Silver 925 Pendant Charm
$15.49
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Vintage Big Madeline Beyuka Zuni Turquoise Pendant Sterling Silver Indian Pawn
$49.88
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Vintage Zuni JS Bellson 925 Needlepoint Coral Necklace Earrings Ring Set
$275.99
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JAE Jolene Eustace Vintage Zuni Modernist 18K Gold Sterling Silver Earrings
$249.99
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Vintage Red Clay Zuni Bird Fetish Necklace New Mexico Round Figural Beads 30
$20.00
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Zuni Needle Point Vintage Silver South Western Turquoise and Coral Cross
$49.23
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VINTAGE MID CENTURY MOD STERLING ZUNI MULTISTONE INLAY THUNDERBIRD CUFF BRACELET
$187.49
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN INLAID TURQUOISE CORAL ONYX LITTLE KACHINA MAN PIN
$135.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER TURQUOISE FLOWER DANGLE PIN
$185.00
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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