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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE AND STONES BUTTERFLY PIN
$475.00
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VINTAGE 1970s ZUNI Turquoise Sterling Leaf Southwestern Native American Ring Sz7
$49.99
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ONYX ZUNI EARRINGS SIGNED LS
$17.84
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VINTAGE PRETTY STERLING NAVAJO ZUNI BUTTERFLY CUFF BRACELET MUST SEE
$17.10
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VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING CORAL MOTHER OF PEARL ONYX SOUTHWESTERN BUTTERFLY PIN
$181.99
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Vintage Sterling Pin Pendant Zuni Inlaid Colorful Stones Butterfly
$19.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE SQUASH BLOSSOM DANGLE EARRINGS
$225.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver 925 inlaid Necklace Signed by Artist
$235.00
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Vintage Zuni Very Large Sterling Silver Petit Point Turquoise Cuff Bracelet
$525.00
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NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE BELT
$399.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE PEACOCK PIN
$245.00
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Vintage Turquoise Necklace Thunderbird southwest Zuni Artist style spiderweb
$34.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING INLAID TURQUOISE SHELL CORAL KNIFEWING MAN PIN
$245.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING TURQUOISE STAR FLOWER PIERCED POST DROP EARRINGS
$135.00
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Vintage sterling silver and turquoise Zuni pendant with dangling accents
$159.99
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Thunderbird Money Clip Stainless Sterling Gemstone
$87.47
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver petite turquoise pendant necklace
$100.00
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Vintage silver NAVAJO ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN CORAL TURQUOISE PENDANT charm
$39.99
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Southwest Vtg Sterling Silver Turquoise Zuni Earrings
$35.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI SILVER WATCH BAND TURQUOISE CHANNEL INLAY
$99.00
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Vtg Sterling Zuni Dangle Pendant Necklace Inlaid Coral Turquoise Gemstone
$50.00
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Dainty Vintage Sterling Silver Southwest ZUNI Inlay Pierced Earrings Signed JP
$38.50
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vintage sterling silver ring A L PABLITO Zuni indian ALDRERO petit pt turquoise
$40.00
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER NECKLACE NEW HANDMADE TURQUOISE ZUNI SPIRIT BEAR PENDANT
$17.99
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Vintage ZUNI Turquoise and Abalone Shell Flower in Sterling Silver Brooch
$12.50
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Beautiful Vintage Zuni Inlay Sterling Silver Ring Size 65
$49.95
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Vintage silver WESTERN COUNTRY NATIVE INDIAN NAVAJO ZUNI HEADDRESS charm L
$14.36
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VINTAGE SOUTHWESTERN STERLING SILVER WITH INLAY PIERCED EARRINGS ZUNI
$16.50
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ZUNI INLAY STERLING SILVER MULTI STONE BRACELET NATIVE AMERICAN VINTAGE
$74.99
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Vintage 1960s 925 Sterling Silver Turquoise Native American Zuni Womens Ring
$10.50
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Vtg Zuni Silver Inlay Turquoise Dishta Style Cross Pendant sterling early
$85.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Road Runner Brooch Mint
$99.99
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ZUNI SEC BLUE LAPIS OVERLAY RING RING SIZE 7
$10.50
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Copper Enamel Pin Vintage Zuni Indian Bear Fetish Brooch Red Heart Life Line
$39.99
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ZUNI L LAIWAKETE CARVED QUARTZ RING SIZE 1125
$0.99
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Vintage Turquoise Sterling Silver Handcrafted Cuff Bracelet Estate Sale Zuni
$169.00
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FABULOUS VINTAGE ZUNI ARTIST HAND CRAFTED STERLING BLACK ONYX RING SIZE 12
$34.99
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One vintage of Mary Tsikewa early Zuni bird fetish necklace with carved birds
$1,800.00
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Vintage 925 Sterling Silver Zuni Indian Dancer Themed Charm for Bracelet
$26.99
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sun God Face Bracelet Mens Large Ralph Lillie Kallestewa
$875.00
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VTG 1940s 925 STERLING SILVER ENGRAVED ZUNI BIRD GREEN TURQUOISE EARRING SET
$167.99
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GL Leekity Vintage NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN Zuni CROSS w TURQUOISE Stones G L
$15.99
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Zuni Inlayed Bracelet Vintage Signed Wilton Carol Niiha HANDMADE
$95.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver turquoise Beaded Necklase Zuni Style Roadrunner Pendant
$69.00
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Vintage Southwestern Turquise Onyx zuni sterling silver ring size 65 HANDMADE
$2,297.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI T WASETA STERLING BLUE MAIDEN KACHINA RING SZ 4 CHOICE EST PC
$10.00
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Vintage Zuni Bee Sterling Pin by C Haido
$75.00
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Vintage Southwestern Zuni Turquoise Coral and Silver Ring Size 6 1 2
$9.99
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Vtg 1970s Effie C Calavaza Zuni Sterling Turquoise Coral Snake Pendant 217Gr
$124.95
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AMAZING VINTAGE VERY OLD ZUNI SNAKE EYE TURQUOISE STERLING ROW BRACELET
$16.50
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VINTAGE INLAY ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN 14 GR STERLING SILVER EARRINGS
$10.00
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Fine 14k Gold TURQUOISE INLAY CUFF Zuni Artist Signed R P BOONE Vintage
$550.00
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VINTAGE NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI INLAID STERLING SILVER RING SIZE 6
$15.00
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Vintage Turquoise Sterling Zuni Squash Blossom Necklace Old Pawn Indian
$1,650.00
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VINTAGE NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE RING SIZE 4 1 2
$16.99
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Vintage Zuni Kachina Silver Turquoise Mother O Pearl Coral Sun God Cuff Bracelet
$59.99
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Vintage ZUNI Blue Gem Turquoise Channel Inlay Buckle Set On VTG Leather Strap
$450.00
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Vintage Native American Navajo Zuni Sterling Silver Old Pawn Repair Lot 123g 925
$23.50
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HUGE 687G VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI MEXICO TURQUOISE STERLING JEWELRY LOT CO327
$34.00
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Lots Of 10 Vtg Sterling Silver SOUTHWESTERN NAVAJO ZUNI Turquoise Coral Ring
$67.51
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RARE OLD VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI 925 STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE BALL BEAD RING 4 1 2
$2.80
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VTG Needlepoint Zuni Sterling Silver 925 Native American Turquoise Long Earrings
$26.00
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VTG Needlepoint Zuni Sterling Silver 925 Native American Turquoise 85 Bracelet
$26.00
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VTG Needlepoint Zuni Sterling Silver Native American Turquoise Necklace Center
$99.00
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Vintage Zuni Silver Inlaid Bird Pin
$29.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Cowry Shell Onyx Road Runner Brooch
$155.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE MOP RING 54gm sz 7 3 4 8
$39.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Southwestern Turquoise Ring Sz 55 jewelry 925
$16.19
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OLD VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN CAST SILVER TURQUOISE STONE BIRD BEAR FETISH NECKLACE
$13.05
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Vintage Zuni Style Sterling Silver Turquoise Shell Inlay Ring Size 6
$47.99
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Vtg ZUNI STERLING SILVERTURQUOISE MOTHER OF PEARL LADIES RINGSIGNED RY
$9.99
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Vtg ZUNI STERLING SILVERTURQUOISEONYX MOTHER OF PEARL RING SIGNEC RY
$9.99
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Vtg ZUNI STERLING SILVER ONYXTURQUOISE MOTHER OF PEARL LADIES RINGRY
$9.99
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Zuni Vintage Inlay Sunface Sterling Silver Earrings Charm Pendant Set
$23.56
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HUGE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER INLAID BIRD RING s 3
$32.85
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VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER INLAID BIRD RING sz 8
$31.36
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Vintage Native American Zuni Signed Hummingbird 625 Handmade Ring
$72.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Muti Inlay Rainbow Man Dancer Pendant Chain
$36.50
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE SHADOW BOX RING 39gm sz 8 3 4
$69.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL BAND RING 57gm sz 8 1 2
$59.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE MOP BAND RING 80gm sz 5
$39.00
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Vtg Sterling Silver Indian Handmade Zuni Stud Earrings Cross Pink Moonstone 5
$29.99
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VTG Silver Earrings Signed 925 American Indian design Black stone ZUNI
$9.98
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Vintage Zuni Snake Eye Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Large Cluster Brooch in Silver
$425.00
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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