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VINTAGE ZUNI SILVER PENDANT MARVELYNE L 124g 4 STONE NICE
$68.00
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EXQUISITE VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI PETIT POINT TURQUOISE BROOCH PIN
$40.00
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TURQUOISE JEWELRY ZUNI 6 DELIGHTFUL VINTAGE PIECES
$195.00
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Vintage Superb 1940s Zuni Sterling Turquoise Cuff Bracelet
$550.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Stone Thunderbird Inlay Cuff Bangle Bracelet CAR 5685
$329.00
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$125.00
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FINE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING TURQUOISE CORAL KNIFEWING KACHINA CUFF BRACELET
$275.00
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FINE LARGE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING TURQUOISE CORAL KACHINA PENDANT NECKLACE
$225.00
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Vintage Zuni Style Petit Point Silver Turquoise Earrings Pierced Ear Style
$26.00
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Vintage Effi C Zuni 925 Pendant Necklace of Silver Beads 20 Long
$134.99
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Vintage Zuni 900 Sterling Coin Silver Native American MOP Turquoise Inlay Ring
$99.99
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Vintage Zuni Native American Sterling Turquoise MOP Coral Onyx Inlay Stick Pin
$6.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Road Runner Brooch Mint
$69.99
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$225.00
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$9.99
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$119.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER + TURQUOISE PETIT POINT EARRINGS FREE
$44.89
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$69.99
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Vintage Antique Zuni Old Dead Pawn Sterling Silver MOP Butterfly Ring Size 55
$11.50
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VTG 1940s 925 STERLING SILVER ENGRAVED ZUNI BIRD GREEN TURQUOISE EARRING SET
$159.59
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Vintage 8 Length Sterling Silver Stone Zuni Bear Fetish Beaded Charm Bracelet
$31.00
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$99.99
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$26.00
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Vintage Zuni Bear Button Cover Sterling Silver Heavy
$30.00
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C VTG STERLING SILVER ZUNI MULTI GEM INLAY PRETTY BIRD BIRDY TIE TACK COLLAR PIN
$64.59
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VTG STERLING SILVER ZUNI MULTI GEM INLAY PRETTY BIRD BIRDY TIE TACK CO
$64.59
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B VTG STERLING SILVER ZUNI MULTI GEM INLAY PRETTY BIRD BIRDY TIE TACK COLLAR PIN
$64.59
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Vtg Zuni Inlay Road Runner Bird Pin Charm Pendant Brooch 925 Sterling Silver
$12.95
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Vintage Sterling Pin Pendant Zuni Inlaid Stones Bird
$19.00
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VINTAGE Navajo Zuni CARVED DENIM LAPIS BEAR FETISH NECKLACE 275 J9092
$80.00
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30 Vintage Zuni Fetish Necklace JET Leaves Black Streak on Tile
$205.00
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Vintage Zuni Signed Effie Calavaza Size 9 1 4 Mens Snake Ring Coral Turquoise
$50.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sterling Silver Pin Brooch or Pendant Turquoise Onyx Coral
$245.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sun God Cuff Bracelet Sterling Mother Pearl Turquoise Coral
$595.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Thunderbird Pin Brooch Sterling Turquoise Onyx Coral MOP
$295.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Necklace Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Tepee Bird Inlaid
$595.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL BAND RING 57gm sz 8 1 2
$59.00
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VINTAGE OLD ZUNI SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE MOP RING 54gm sz 7 3 4 8
$39.00
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Vintage Charming Mother of PearlTurquoise Inlaid Ring Sterling Silver Zuni S7
$39.88
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sun God Clip Earrings Sterling Mother Pearl Turquoise Coral
$175.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Sun God Ring Unisex Sterling Mother Pearl Turquoise Coral
$175.00
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VTG ZUNI F CHEAMA SIGNED STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL RINGS SIZES 6
$19.99
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Bird Ring Sterling Silver Onyx Coral Malachite MOP Sz 825
$165.00
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$195.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI DISHTA BRACELET
$52.50
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Vintage Native American Bangle Bracelet Zuni Signed MKL Turquiose
$59.99
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Vintage Native American Bangle Bracelet Zuni Turquiose Mother of Pearl
$39.99
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Beautiful Vintage ZUNI Indian TURQUOISE STAR Like Screwback EARRINGS
$125.00
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Vintage Ladies Zuni 4 stone inlayTurquoise Marquise Ring Sterling Silver size 6
$26.00
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Vintage Ladies Zuni 9 stone inlayTurquoise Oval Ring Sterling size 75
$25.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID FIRE AGATE PENDANT NECKLACE
$116.10
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Vtg Zuni Bird Fetish Necklace Earrings Sterling Silver Handcrafted
$29.95
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VINTAGE ZUNI INLAYED CORAL TURQUOISE BUTTERFLY FIGURAL SILVER RING SIZE 525
$5.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN TURQUOISE HEISHI BEAD INLAID TURQUOISE MOSAIC SHELL PENDANT
$225.00
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PHYLLIS COONSIS VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING TURQUOISE PIN OR PENDANT LOVELY DESIGN
$48.00
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GORGEOUS BIG VTG 30s ZUNI STERLING SILVER PETIT POINT TURQUOISE RING NI381
$8.50
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Native Southwest Petti Point Turquoise Necklace
$24.99
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Vintage Amazing Old Pawn Navajo Or Zuni Silver And Turquoise Signed Bracelet
$349.00
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Vintage Navajo Zuni Sterling Silver L Ramone Black Onyx Floral Feather Pin
$24.95
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Vintage Unbelieveable Inlaid Eagle Bolo Tie Signed Zuni Paul Peyketewa Jr
$325.00
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Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Loop Earrings Screw backs Vintage Indian Made
$39.00
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VTG ZUNI STERLING THUNDERBIRD BOLO SLIDE W INLAID MOP ONYX TURQUOISE CORAL BOLO
$75.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Feather Earrings Necklace
$54.99
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HORACE IULE VINTAGE RARE ZUNI INDIAN SS TURQUOISE CROSS SIGNED ON BACK 227
$124.75
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Vintage Turquoise bracelet with Petit point Zuni inserts
$49.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Petite Point Turquoise RiIng Southwestern Ring
$24.00
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Vintage Zuni Fetish Fox bead necklace
$9.99
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Vintage SIGNED ZUNI Sterling Silver Navajo Turquoise Charm Pendant 100190
$18.88
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER OLD ZUNI TURQUOISE CUFF BRACELET NEW OLD FRED HARVEY ERA
$129.00
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ANTIQUE VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER MULTI STONE INLAY THUNDERBIRD RING
$27.25
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VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN SUN FACE TURQUOISE CORAL ONYX RING 625
$17.99
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Vintage QT Sterling Silver Earrings Inlay Multicolor Stone Zuni Style
$45.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Band sz 10 NR Zuni Bear Design
$14.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI Signed Silver Turquoise Cuff Bracelet and Ring Set S WALLACE
$99.00
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ZUNI TURQUOISE CUFF BRACELET BABY CHILD FRED HARVEY ERA
$69.00
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER ZUNI TURQUOISE CUFF BRACELET BABY CHILD FRED HARVEY ERA
$69.00
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ZUNI HANDCRAFTED VINTAGE PETIT POINT TURQUOISE STERLING SILVER RING SIZE 7
$16.95
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Zuni vintage turquoise 4 cabs Kansas City sm Ring s L 5
$22.95
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Zuni Style Vintage Sterling Silver Sunburst Cross w Blue Turquoise Charm H662
$10.95
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zuni inlay owl ring vintage sz 7
$22.00
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Vintage Sterling Turquoise Zuni Channel Inlay Spiderweb Link Bracelet Circa 1980
$350.00
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VIntage Zuni 3 Stone Turquoise SunFace Pendant and chain Sterling Silver
$29.95
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver multi stone Bangle and clip on errings SET
$186.15
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING INLAY TURQUOISE CORAL LIGHTENING BOLTS CUFFLINKS
$385.00
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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