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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Kachina Doll Pin Pendant Alonzo Hustito
$265.00
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Zuni M Signed Vintage 925 Sterling Silver NECKLACE Native Southwestern 522
$39.99
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Vintage Native American Zuni Sterling silver Opal Beaded Necklace
$95.00
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Vintage Native American Jewelry Zuni Inlaid Earrings Turquoise Sterling Silver
$39.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER INLAID TURQUOISE ONYX KNIFEWING MAN PIN
$275.00
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Vintage LOT qty 14 Zuni Hopi carved beads birds fetish turquoise shell MOP 13g
$47.99
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LRG VTG SOUTHWEST STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE LAPIS ONYX ZUNI INLAY STUD EARRINGS
$46.75
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GREAT VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER INLAID CORAL TURQUOISE ONYX SHELL CUFF BRACELET
$1,275.00
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VTG MULTI 3 STRAND TURQUOISE NUGGET HEISHI SHELL FETISH BIRD ZUNI NECKLACE
$79.99
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VTG STERLING SILVER ZUNI TURQUOISE CUFF BRACELET SIGNED 60 GRAMS
$199.99
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VTG Fred Harvey Era Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Petit Point Cuff Bracelet
$99.99
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Fine Vintage Zuni Silver Green Needle Point Turquoise Necklace
$140.00
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STUNNING RARE VTG HAND MADE ZUNI CORNUCOPIA STICK PIN TURQUOISE CORAL+++++
$179.99
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BIG Vtg 1950s ZUNI Modernist Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Inlay TRIBAL Cufflinks
$239.20
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BIG Vintage ZUNI Modernist EVA ETSATE Sterling Silver BALD EAGLE Inlay Cufflinks
$399.20
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Vtg 1950s ZUNI Modernist TURQUOISE Inlay Sterling Silver Earrings 15+ Dangle
$151.20
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VTG STERLING SILVER NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI ALBERT PEWA TURQUOISE CUFF BRACELET
$64.99
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VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI NEEDLEPOINT SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE NATIVE RING SZ 5
$54.39
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Vintage Sterling Silver 925 Charm Pendant turquoise southwest zuni native rope
$25.99
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Vintage ZUNI Turquoise HAND CARVED ANIMAL FETISH Sterling Silver NECKLACE
$60.99
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Old Vintage ZUNI Petit Point Unsigned Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Cuff Bracelet
$220.00
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VTG BUFFALO HIDE POUCH WEDDING CEREMONY FETISH NECKLACE ZUNI
$299.99
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Vintage Antique Estate Faux Turquoise Zuni Silver Cuff Bracelet Bangle
$28.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Cuff Bracelet Signed JRB Zuni NM
$99.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Ring Signed WJS Size 45 70gr
$95.00
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VINTAGE SADIE MORRIS LAAHTE ZUNI STERLING PENDANT EARRINGS TURQUOISE MOP CORAL
$39.99
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Vintage Lalio Turquoise Onyx 6 1 2 Sterling Silver 0925 Zuni Cuff Bracelet
$132.59
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VINTAGE ZUNI RED BIRD CORAL TURQUOISE INLAY STERLING SILVER RING SZ 5 3 8
$50.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Flush Inlay Green Turquoise Cuff by MLK
$35.99
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Vintage ZUNI sterling silver Turquoise cross necklace pendant dress pin brooch
$89.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE ONYX MOP INLAY EAGLE BIRD BROOCH PIN 13g
$154.99
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VTG ZUNI SOUTHWESTERN GENUINE GREEN BLUE TURQUOISE CORAL HEISHI BEAD NECKLACE
$22.50
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Lot 611 VIntage Zuni inlay quail ring Size 6
$125.00
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Vintage Southwest Large Zuni Bear Fetish Heartline Dangle Earrings 8 gm
$21.99
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Vtg Zuni Inlaid Turquoise Coral Mosaic Sterling Silver Ring Size 6 Estate
$24.95
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Navajo Zuni Pawn Sterling silver turquoise vintage cufflinks Stamped T2
$100.00
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Vintage Zuni Petit Point Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Sterling Silver Earrings E26
$22.13
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VTG 1980s ZUNI CM Booqua TURQUOISE CORAL Inlay STERLING SILVER Hoop EARRINGS
$85.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Kokopelli Dancer Flute Player Necklace Pendant
$44.25
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Tribal Gemstone Inlay Clip Earrings
$45.00
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VINTAGE A GASPER ZUNI SUNFACE OPEN CUFF BRACELET
$119.99
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VINTAGE JOSEPH GASPER ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN TURQUOISE STERLING SILVER BRACELET
$119.99
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Vintage Navajo Zuni Native American Sterling Turquoise Watch Tips
$44.95
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Vintage Taxco Mexico Signed Sterling Silver Turquoise Zuni Ring w Inlay EUC
$14.50
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Vintage Native American 3 pc Lot Stone Enamel Inlay 3 Pendants Zuni Style RARE
$14.50
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Vintage Southwestern 925 Silver Pin with Onyx Cab Glenn Paquin Laguna Zuni NM
$24.99
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Vintage Old Pawn Zuni Sterling Silver Snake Eye Turquoise Cuff Bracelet
$33.00
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VINTAGE Sybil Cachini ZUNI Sterling Multi Stone Horned Kachina Doll Ring S 6 1 2
$68.00
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2 Vtg Zuni Indian Sterling Pawn Silver Blue Turquoise Petit Point Hair Combs
$37.00
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Vintage Zuni T G Segura Sterling Heart Pendant with Blue Lapis Decoration
$82.42
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Vintage Zuni Bear Fetish Necklace Pendant Finding Brown Picture Jasper Carving
$65.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER THUNDERBIRD PIN PENDANT TURQUOISE CORAL ETC
$39.00
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3 SINGLE VINTAGE NAVAJO + ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER STONE INLAY EARRINGS
$24.00
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Vintage Faux Turquoise Souvenir Southwestern Zuni Indian Dancer Pendant Necklace
$24.95
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Vintage Zuni Native American Silver Inlaid Gemstone Kachina Ring Adjustable
$9.99
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Vintage 1982 Zuni TCA Sterling Silver Onyx Coral Turquoise Screwback Earrings
$9.99
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SIGNED Vtg ZUNI Made DAVE CELIA NIETO Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Ring Sz 8 9
$319.20
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SIGNED Vtg ZUNI Modernist TURQUOISE TORTOISE MOP Sterling Silver RAM Ring 925
$319.20
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BIG Vtg ZUNI Modernist EZZZ Sterling Silver GEM Inlay TRIBAL Ring Sz 65 SIGNED
$343.20
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EARLY Vtg ZUNI Modernist Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Inlay TRIBAL Ring SIZE 115
$279.20
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Vtg ZUNI Modernist WILBUR IULE Sterling Silver TURQUOISE Shadowbox Cufflinks
$255.20
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Vintage Zuni Signed Corn Maiden Pendant with a 925 Silver Chain Necklace
$125.00
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VINTAGE Native American Navajo ZUNI Turquoise CORAL Sterling Silver 925 RING
$26.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI SILVER ROADRUNNER STICKPIN w TURQUOISE CORAL ONYX
$9.95
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Vintage Sterling Silver Ring Zuni Turquoise Ball Squash Blossom Adjustable
$155.00
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ESTATE Vintage Amy Quandelacy Zuni Hummingbird Eye Turquoise Coral Ring C110
$180.00
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ESTATE Vintage Signed Sterling Zuni Snake Eye Turquoise Brooch Pendant BE216
$34.99
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3 Vtg Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Rings Butterflies EFFIE ZUNI Sz 4 6 6 1 2
$9.99
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Vtg Charm Bracelet 9 Charms Zuni Turtle Fetish Gold Tone New Orleans 925 Aries
$33.50
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VTG Navajo or Zuni sterling silver gem stone inlay lapis spiny oyster pendant
$49.00
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VINTAGE MID CENTURY MOD STERLING ZUNI MULTISTONE INLAY THUNDERBIRD CUFF BRACELET
$249.99
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ESTATE Pawn Vintage Zuni Huge Morenci Turquoise Coral Cluster Bracelet C618
$950.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN INLAID TURQUOISE CORAL ONYX LITTLE KACHINA MAN PIN
$118.00
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Zuni Coral snake eyes Ring Sterling Silver GDM Native American vintage sz 7
$64.00
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Vintage Zuni Howard Leekela Sterling Mop Turquoise Inlay Butterfly Ring Sz 55
$123.75
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VINTAGE SNAKE EYE ZUNI PENDANT SLIDER OLD STERLING SILVER RARE
$69.99
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING INLAID TURQUOISE ONYX SHELL PINWHEEL EARRINGS
$275.00
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Vintage mid 70s Crushed Turquoise and silver ring Zuni style Size 8
$49.00
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BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER TURQUOISE FLOWER DANGLE PIN
$185.00
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ZUNI VINTAGE WALT DISNEY MICKEY MOUSE STERLING RING SIGN CMP CHARLES MARY PONCHO
$425.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Ring Turquoise Multistone Oblong Size 5 MOP Olivine
$59.99
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Vtg Sterling Silver 925 Zuni Healing Medicine Bear Lapel Pin Southwestern 17g
$20.00
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Vtg ZUNI INLAY STONE HUMMINGBIRD BIRD Silver Coral Turquoise Dress Pin Pendant
$23.95
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Big Vtg ZUNI INLAY CARVED 6 STONE STERLING SILVER Artist Signed Pierced Earrings
$31.95
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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