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VINTAGE PAIR OF ZUNI STERLING ROAD RUNNER CUFFLINKS
$75.00
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Vintage Sterling Zuni Stamped Sun face Cuff Bracelet
$150.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER INLAID FIRE AGATE PENDANT NECKLACE
$116.10
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VINTAGE WOMENS SILVER NATIVE ZUNI HAWK BIRD 625 RING
$29.69
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Southwest SILVERVtg TurquoiseGEMSTONEZuniNATIVE Charm Bracelet DESERT TEARS
$24.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN SILVER INLAID CORAL TURQUOISE ONYX THUNDERBIRD PIN
$148.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING TURQUOISE SQUASH BLOSSOM SCREWBACK DANGLE EARRINGS
$185.00
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Vintage Zuni Stering Silver Turquoise Band Ring Sz 6 1 2 Jewelry 1 2 49g
$30.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Southwestern Zuni Oblong Inlaid Ring Turq Coral+ sz 8
$48.00
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VINTAGE NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI INLAID STYLE EAGLE DANCER PENDANT WITH 22 CHAIN
$125.00
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Whimsical Vintage 21 Inch Zuni Turquoise Silver Petit Point Necklace
$350.00
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Old Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Petit Point Squash Blossom Earrings
$98.00
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STERLING SILVER ZUNI INDIAN VINTAGE PIECESE EDAAKIE NECKLACE
$49.99
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1 3 8 LARGE VINTAGE ZUNI STERLING SILVER INLAY TURQUOISE JASPER RING SZ 575
$20.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Turquoise Inlay 188g Ring 1025 Mens UV8542
$10.50
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$18.50
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Turquoise Inlay 43g Ring 1075 Mens UV8572
$12.00
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STUNNING Vtg ZUNI Modernist GEMSTONE INLAY Sterling Silver TRIBAL Cufflinks
$319.20
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Coral Inlay 127g Ring 7 Mens UV8812
$11.50
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Zuni Turquoise and Sterling Silver Vintage Ring
$46.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI LL Turquoise Coral 62g Ring 775 UV8962
$6.50
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$45.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI TURQUOISE AND CORAL PETIT POINT RING NEEDS REPAIR
$39.00
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VERY OLD DARK PATINA VINTAGE ZUNI PETIT POINT TURQUOSE STERING BRACELET 50GRM
$329.00
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VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI PUEBLO STERLING SILVER BIRDS HEISHI BEADS NECKLACE 24
$44.95
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VINTAGE SOUTHWEST TURQUOISE ZUNI NEEDLEPOINT CLUSTER RING SIZE 675
$95.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI MOTHER OF PEARL CARVED FETISH MULTI STRAND NECKLACE
$49.00
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Vintage Hopi Pendant Zuni Bear Fetish Sterling Sterling Large Bail for Necklace
$195.00
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$22.22
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Old Vintage Native American Zuni Silver Turquoise Cluster Cuff Bracelet Small
$198.00
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$110.00
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$24.95
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VINTAGE STERLING ZUNI NEEDLEPOINT SLEEPING BEAUTY TURQUOISE NATIVE RING SZ 5
$59.99
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Vintage ZUNI Bypass Ring Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Size 8
$28.00
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Vintage Silver Ring Turquoise Older Ring Zuni Indian Antique ring
$72.00
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Vintage Zuni Ring Sterling Silver Turquoise Size 75 Banketewa Excellent
$125.00
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Vintage Zuni Necklace Silver Turquoise White Heishi Ring Beads Figure 8 Clasp
$18.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI MOTHER OF PEARL CARVED BIRDS FISH FETISH HEISHI BEAD NECKLACE
$69.00
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Fine Vintage Zuni Indian Mother of Pearl Carved Fetish Bird Necklace Beads
$11.49
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Vintage estate silver tone faux turquoise Zuni screw back earrings
$6.75
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Vintage ZUNI Channel Inlay Turquoise Pendant Necklace Handmade Silver Chain
$99.00
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Vintage ZUNI Inlay KNIFEWING Pendant Silver Bead Necklace
$175.00
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Vintage Copper Zuni Knifewing Dancer Link Bracelet plus 2 extra Bracelets lot
$19.99
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Vtg STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE Braided Ring Sz 55
$1.25
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Vtg STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE INLAY Ring Sz 60
$0.99
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Vtg SIGNED NEZ STERLING Silver STAMPED NAVAJO Zuni MULTI GEMSTONE Cuff Bracelet
$11.61
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Vtg STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native NAVAJO ZUNI Turquoise INLAY WIDE Band Ring
$0.69
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Vtg SIGNED STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni MALACHITE LEAF Ring
$4.75
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Vtg STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE Snake Eye Ring Sz 95
$4.75
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Vtg SIGNED STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni MOTHER OF PEARL
$1.75
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Vtg SIGNED STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni ONYX LEAF Ring Sz 625
$0.90
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Vtg LARGE STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni Lapis Lazuli TearDrop Ring
$3.25
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Vtg STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native NAVAJO ZUNI Crushed Turquoise WIDE Band Ring
$0.85
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Vtg LARGE STERLING Silver OLD PAWN Native Navajo Zuni TURQUOISE INLAY Ring Sz65
$1.50
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Vtg STERLING Silver Old Pawn Southwestern Native ZUNI MALACHITE Ring Sz 85
$2.36
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Vintage Sterling Silver 16 Charm Bracelet 4648 Grams 1 Zuni Inlay 1 Railroad
$65.00
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Vintage Silver Toned Purple Stone Zuni Bear Western Dangle Earrings
$15.00
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VTG SIGNED ZUNI H VY INLAY PEYOTE WATER BIRD STERLING CHAIN NECKLACE
$374.99
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PUEBLO TURQUOISE SILVER MOSAIC INLAY SHELL DANGLE EARRINGS VINTAGE TUCSON ESTATE
$49.99
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Vintage Native American ZUNI INLAID Ring Sterling Silver Masterful Inlay
$35.00
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VTG ZUNI INDIAN BLUE TURQUOISE LAPIS RED STONE STERLING SILVER BEAR NECKLACE 18
$7.39
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Snake Eye Turquoise 3g Ring 9 Mens UV8802
$3.00
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Beautiful ZUNI Vintage By P JONES Turquoise Sterling Silver Earrings
$71.10
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Vintage inlaid marked Zuni DVE silver ring
$12.85
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Vintage Sterling Silver ZUNI Snake Eye Turquoise 78g Ring 95 Mens UZ5222
$8.79
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Vintage SILVER TURQUOISE CORAL RATTLESNAKE EARRINGS NIETTO Zuni Southwestern
$84.99
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Pretty Vintage 1940s Hand Made Zuni Turquoise Onyx Brooch 184MY5
$21.99
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Vintage Inlay Zuni Turquoise Ring
$179.00
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VINTAGE ANTIQUE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER STONE INLAY KNIFEWING T BIRD BOLO
$39.66
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Vintage ZUNI J A Calavaza Hand Signed Kokopeli Inlay Sterling Pendant
$24.99
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Vintage ST Faux Turquoise Zuni Design Petit Pt Flower Pendant Chain Necklace 24
$21.99
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Cute Zuni Vintage 50s Sterling Turquoise Road Runner Brooch Pin 533N5
$21.99
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Sterling Silver Vintage Inlaid Zuni Coral Turquoise Onyx MOP Bolo Tie Pendant
$450.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Bear Paw Turquoise Drop Earrings
$19.95
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GORGEOUS OLD VTG ZUNI STERLING SILVER BLUE GREEN TURQUOISE ONYX PENDANT
$46.74
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VINTAGE ZUNI PUEBLO INLAYED THUNDERBIRD PENDANT STERLING SILVER OLD PAWN
$20.00
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Vintage Zuni Snake Eye Petitioning Double Row Sterling Turquoise Cuff Bracelet
$285.00
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VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI ANIMAL FETISH TURQUOISE AMBER BEAD 3 STRAND NECKLACE
$469.99
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Sterling Silver Vintage 925 Navajo Zuni Cuff Turquoise Bracelet 575 57g 492496
$279.99
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R Iule Sterling Silver Vintage 925 Zuni Cross MOP Coral Pendant 77g 509161
$249.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Flower Earrings RS
$5.50
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Extraordinary Vintage Zuni c1940 Old Pawn Sterling Turquoise Ring Size 6
$249.00
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Vintage Estate Fabulous Sterling Turquoise Inlaid Mixed Material Zuni Earrings
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni Sun Face Turquoise Coral Stickpin
$9.99
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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