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Vintage 925 Sterling Silver Unique Zuni Bear Navajo Design Ring Sz 7 352167
$10.50
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$60.00
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$45.00
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$75.00
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$200.00
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$45.00
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$185.00
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$79.00
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Vtg STERLING SILVER OLD PAWN ZUNI NAVAJO FRED HARVEY TURQ Charm Bracelet
$125.00
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$5.24
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Vintage 1950s 60s Handmade Zuni Firebird Sterling Stone Inlay BOLO Necklace
$112.49
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Vintage Silver Zuni Belt Buckle Signed Effie C with Turquoise Red Coral
$119.00
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VINTAGE JOSEPH GASPER ZUNI NATIVE AMERICAN TURQUOISE STERLING SILVER BRACELET
$89.99
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$99.00
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GORGEOUS OLD VTG SOUTHWESTERN ZUNI LADIES STERLING SILVER MOTHER OF PEARL RING
$99.99
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$8.00
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$265.00
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$19.00
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Vintage Zuni Inlay Pin Brooch Monther Of Pearl Turquioise Jewelry Silver
$60.00
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$1.00
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$28.99
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$35.00
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$75.00
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$127.50
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$19.99
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VTG Native Amer Zuni Signed Sterling Silver Thunderbird Pendant Pin Necklace 27
$398.00
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ZUNI INDIAN VINTAGE STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE DROP EARRINGS
$95.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI BOLO TIE
$35.95
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VINTAGE LOT OF 20 ZUNI AND NAVAJO TURQUOISE SILVER RINGS AND PENDANT 116 GRAMS
$202.50
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$55.00
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$4.99
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Vintage ZUNI Effie Calavaza Sterling Turquoise Coral American Indian Ring Size 9
$175.00
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$24.99
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Zuni Turquoise Sterling Silver Native American Petit Vintage Point Size 5 FMGE
$44.95
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RARE VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI 925 STERLING SILVER BALL BEAD CREAM BONE NECKLACE
$5.64
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Vintage Zuni Pierced Hoop Pieced Earrings Turquoise Lapis Red Coral Sterling
$29.99
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RARE VINTAGE NAVAJO ZUNI ETCHED CARVED RUBBER SILVER NECKLACE
$0.99
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Vtg Handmade Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Channel Inlay Cuff Bracelet J BA
$30.93
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Vtg JANE PASELENTE Zuni Solid Sterling Silver Turquoise Cluster Ring Sz 6 J BX
$51.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Coral Shell Indian Chief Necklace Pin J
$38.77
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VINTAGE OLD PAWN ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE INLAY WILD TURKEY PIN NR
$54.99
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Signed Vintage Zuni Turquoise And Spiny Oyster Pin Brooch
$29.90
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$150.00
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Vintage Zuni Carved Jet Medicine Bear Fox Turtle Fetish Necklace
$149.99
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Small Turquoise Inlay Belt Buckle Vintage Zuni Handmade by Hughte up to 1 belt
$123.50
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Vintage Zuni STERLING TURQUOISE Coral ONYX native american stud drop earrings
$53.99
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Sterling Zuni Unsigned Vintage Coral and Turquoises Inlay Butterfly Pin
$9.99
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VINTAGE STERLING SOUTHWESTERN PIN PENDANT COMBO ZUNI ROADRUNNER GREAT AT 2600
$26.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE STAR LIKE SCREWBACK EARRINGS
$75.00
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Vintage Zuni or Navajo Sterling Silver Turquoise Peyote Bird Pin
$28.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Ring Green Blue Turquoise Sz 5 58GR GOOD COND
$9.99
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Vintage STERLING TURQUOISE Fred Elsie ZUNI Native Old Pawn NECKLACE
$495.00
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Vintage Mens Sterling Silver Ring Zuni Kokopelli Kachina Emblem Size 11
$224.99
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Vintage 1950s Size 525 Zuni Turquoise Sterling Silver Coral Ring 894C
$26.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver Snake Eye 3 Stone Turquoise Pinky Ring 475 16 gr
$15.00
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$129.99
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ODELLE SEOWTEWA VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN PETIT POINT STERLING TURQUOISE BRACELET
$475.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI TURQUOISE BEAR ANIMAL FETISH HEISHI NECKLACE 28 LONG NICE SHAPE
$34.99
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$85.00
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BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY TURQUOISE STERLING EARRINGS
$27.00
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VTG NATIVE AMERICAN ZUNI STERLING AND TURQUOISE CLIP BACK EARRINGS
$12.00
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TINY VINTAGE ZUNI INDIAN STERLING SILVER TURQUOISE THUNDERBIRD TIE TAC
$52.00
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Vintage Hand Carved Zuni Turtle Fetish Pendant With Inlaid Stones
$55.00
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Vintage Silvertone Inlay Zuni Turquoise Ring Size 10
$2.99
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Vintage Silvertone Inlay Zuni Turquoise Ring Size 4
$2.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Needlepoint Turquoise Pin Brooch Pendant Signed Bezel
$39.99
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Vintage sterling silver ZUNI INDIAN NAVAJO INLAY PEARL ONYX BROOCH pin L
$59.95
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Vintage Handmade Zuni Sterling Silver Turquoise Channel Inlay Cuff Bracelet J BA
$26.00
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Vintage Zuni Petit Point Turquoise Coral Lapis Sterling Silver Charm Bracelet
$28.00
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LARGE VINTAGE OLD ZUNI STERLING SILVER SHADOW TURQUOISE RING 167gm SZ 925 MENS
$109.00
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VTG WESTERN COWBOY ZUNI ENAMEL INLAY BOLO TIE SHIPS FREE
$24.99
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Vintage silver turquoise MOP coral INLAY Butterfly BROOCH Zuni Native American
$169.99
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Vintage Old Pawn Zuni Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet Green Turquoise Hand Crafted
$349.00
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Ring sz 975
$44.99
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Stone Thunderbird Inlay Cuff Bangle Bracelet CAR 5685
$329.00
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Vintage Zuni Silver Cuff Bracelet and Silver Ring Size 6 1 4 with Multi Stones
$249.99
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$19.99
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Vintage Sterling Silver Zuni Inlaid Owl Figural Pin Turquoise Conch Coral Bird
$110.00
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VINTAGE STERLING SILVER BLUE TURQUOISE NA PETIT POINT FAN POST EARRINGS ZUNI
$29.99
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VINTAGE SIGNED EFFIE C ZUNI STERLING TURQUOISE CORAL TALL SNAKE RING SIZE 52
$155.00
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VINTAGE ZUNI NAVAJO ATRISAN MYRON MYRA PANTEAH STERLING ONYX EARRINGS SIGNED
$39.99
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Vintage 1950s ZUNI Carved Turquoise Engraved Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet
$45.00
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VINTAGE SOUTHWESTERN ZUNI INLAY RAINBOW MAN BOLO TIE
$350.00
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Vintage Zuni Sterling Silver 925 inlaid Necklace Signed by Artist Pendant
$235.00
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Vintage Zuni

VINTAGE ZUNI INLAY HUMMINGBIRD SQUASH

Pendleton Woolen Mills

Company origins

Thomas L. Kay

The company beginnings were in 1889ot yet under the name Pendletony Thomas L. Kay when he opened his own woolen mill, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon. Kay was an immigrant from England and a weaver by trade. He had previously worked in various textile mills on the east coast of the United States. In 1863 he made a transcontinental trek to the west coast and began working in the woolen mills in Oregon. Before opening his own mill in Salem, he had helped to set up only the second mill in Oregon at Brownsville.

Kay brought his oldest daughter, Fannie Kay, into the business and after learning the operation and management of the mill, she became her father assistant. In 1876 Fannie married retail merchant C.P. (Charles Pleasant) Bishop. This proved to be a great benefit to Kay company and to the Bishop enterprises in the combination of manufacturing and retail sales. The Bishops passed their expertise and knowledge to their three sons: Clarence, Roy, and (Robert) Chauncey.

Pendleton Woolen Mills

In 1909 the family moved to Pendleton in northeastern Oregon and took over the old defunct Pendleton Woolen Mills to begin the business there. The town of Pendleton backed the family in their new business venture and the Bishops company also took over the name Pendleton Woolen Mills. The move to eastern Oregon made sense for the business because eastern Oregon is sheep country and having wool producers near the mills allowed the mills to significantly cut the costs of production. The town of Pendleton is a major railhead for the Columbia River Plateau and allowed convenient shipping for the growing business.

Pendleton Wollen Mills in Pendleton, OR, now a retail sales facility for the company

The old mill that was taken over by the Bishops had been built in 1893 and had been a wool scouring plant where raw wool is scrubbed and packed before shipping out to the textile mills. In 1895 the mill was enlarged and converted into a textile mill and in 1896 began making Indian blanketseometric patterned robes (unfringed blankets) for Indian men and shawls (fringed blankets) for Indian women in the areahe Umatilla, Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes. That business eventually failed and the plant stood idle until it was purchased by the Bishop family. When the Bishop family took over the plant they built a new plant with the assistance of the town of Pendleton, which issued bonds for the construction of the plant.

Blankets

The family resumed the production of Indian blankets and introduced new designs, colors, and patterns to their product line. They also changed the construction of the mill's Indian blankets. Prior to 1909 the blankets had round corners. The Bishop blankets featured square corners. Pendleton round corner blankets are highly coveted by vintage Indian blanket collectors. The company expanded their trade from the local Indians to the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni peoples of the American Southwest. The Pendleton blankets were not only basic wearing apparel, but were standards of trading and ceremonial use.

Expansion

The company began to expand their product line into other woolen products such as clothing. In 1912 the company opened a weaving mill in Washougal, Washington (across the river from Portland) for the production of woolen fabrics used in suits and other clothing.

One of the original three Bishop sons, Clarence Morton Bishopsually known as .M.tarted a new product line of men woolen sport shirts in bright colors and patterns. Prior to that time woolen shirts had been considered work shirts and came in mostly dull colors. In 1924 the company began producing men woolen sport shirts and by 1929 the company was producing a full line of woolen sportswear.

The second Bishop son, Roy, had left the company in 1918 to form his own company, the Oregon Worsted Company. The third son, Chauncey, died in 1927. This left C.M. with the sole responsibility for management of the Pendleton Woolen Mills.

During World War II, 194145, Pendleton Woolen Mills devoted most of its production to blankets, uniforms and clothing for the US military services.

In 1949, after postwar market research showed a desire for women sportswear, the company introduced a line of wool clothing for women and the 49er jacket proved extremely popular. The reversible pleated skirt was also very popular.

In 1960, a little-known singing group known as the Pendletones was formed, taking their name from the classic Pendleton wool plaid shirt. This group later changed their name to The Beach Boys and the Pendleton shirt became popular among American youth.

In 1972 the company again expanded its product line with the introduction of non-wool garments for men and women. Many customers had a desire for the classic Pendleton look but wanted lighter clothing for spring and summer wear. Again the new line was a major success for Pendleton.

Retail distribution

Throughout the company history its products had been sold in specialty stores and selected department storesncluding, of course, C.P. Bishop original clothing store in Salem. In the 1980s Pendleton entered the retail business with a chain of company-owned and privately owned specialty stores that sold the full line of Pendleton products. The company also went into the mail-order business and regularly published its own catalogs. In the 1990s Pendleton expanded into internet sales.

The company today

As of 2009 the company is still privately held and under the management of the Bishop family. C.M. Bishop III, the great-grandson of C.P. Bishop, is the president; great-grandsons John and Charles are vice presidents; and great-grandson Peter is the manager of the company catalog/internet division. The company operates eight facilities and 75 retail stores. Pendleton products are sold in the USA, Canada, Japan, and China.

The headquarters of the company are in Portland, Oregon. The original plants in Pendleton and Washougal are still in operation, along with two mills in Portland and a manufacturing plant in Bellevue, Nebraska.

Mission Mill Museum

The original Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem was still operated by the Kay family, who were related to the Bishops, until it was closed in 1962. The mill was subsequently purchased by the Mission Mill Museum Association, a private, non-profit organization formed in 1964. Mission Mill Museum is the only woolen mill museum west of Missouri and has one of the few water-powered turbines in the Pacific Northwest that still generates electricity from a millrace.

External links

Hoovers report on Pendleton Woolen Mills, Inc.

History of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, Oregon

Historic photo archive The Pendleton Woolen Mill in 1934[dead link]

Current picture of Pendleton Mill[dead link]

Designs of Pendleton Native American blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Pendleton Blankets Commercial site, but shows some beautiful traditional-style Indian blankets and robes

Story on American Indian trade blankets

Story on American Indian trade blankets

(2007) Wrapped In Tradition: The Chihuly Collection of American Indian Trade Blankets Mayborn Museum Complex, Waco, Texas

Salem Public Library Association: Biography of Thomas L. Kay

Categories: Clothing manufacturers | Companies based in Portland, Oregon | Companies established in 1889 | Family businesses | Pendleton, OregonHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from April 2007 | All articles lacking sources | All articles with dead external links | Articles with dead external links from September 2009

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